A friend sent me a link to virtual fitness goals; climbing Everest in your apartment building and the like, so I thought I might walk a Camino in my neighbourhood. I started with that intention yesterday, but wasn't really sure which Camino or why.
Today, things became a little clearer. The first time I walked the Camino Frances, 12 years ago, I missed a few sections because of illness, and risk aversion. I decided to make up those steps. I want to see if I can find images of things I missed, and to replace those images with experiences had closer (much closer) to home. My spiritual intention is not quite so clear yet, but I suspect that will come as the number of steps mounts up.
My first gap in the Camino Frances of 2008 occurred at Azofra, in La Rioja. I'd been sick, first with a sinus infection, and later with what medieval pilgrims would have called the "bloody flux" since the very beginning of my trip,( thanks to some suspect whipped cream). I had started to feel really ill in Najera the night before, and my new Australian friends, with whom I'd been walking on and off for four days had taken good care of me. I had vowed to keep walking, but by the time I reached Azofra I knew that I couldn't make the 16 kilometre walk to Santo Domingo de Calzada.
This was annoying because I had heard this was a lovely stretch of countryside, which I always prefer to walking on or near roads. But it couldn't be helped. I hung around the lovely courtyard (and bathroom) of the albergue in Azofra for a while, trying to decide whether to stay here and rest, or try to find a doctor, or to pack it in and go home. In the end, I took a taxi to Santo Domingo de la Calzada where there was a big health clinic, and got some drugs and a bed.
I look at images of this stage online and find I'm not too sorry to have missed it. It's very open and exposed, and, as I recall, it snowed a bit that day. In my weakened state, it would have been an error to have attempted it.
My make-up kilometres have been spent in the immediate neighbourhood. The sun has been shining and the weather balmy. I hurt a lot more than I did 12 years ago. My dodgy knee is even dodgier, and my muscles and tendons are a dozen winters less springy. I still love to walk though. It will always be my favourite mode of locomotion. You have time to see, to listen, to feel, and smell. You can stop anytime something catches your eye or your fancy.
So, what are the highlights of this virtual stage?
Coltsfoot blooming in the ditches; willows at the height of rising sap, stalks glowing a neon chartreuse. Blackbirds bravely chivvying crows from their patch; all manner of birdsong, backed by a chorus of frogs. A majestic loon in solitary ambit of his own personal bay on the lake. A culvert taken over by beavers keen on making their mark on the world.
Most spectacular so far has been the sight of a pair of bluebirds flitting away from me, cautious but unhurried. That flash of heartstopping blue is better than any Spanish sky, any day of the year.
Though only just, mind you.
4 more km tovirtual Ciruena, where I will have a virtual cafe con leche, before heading onto Santo Domingo.
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